Mashed In Blog

Recipe: Cold Brewed Coffee May 21, 2016 16:24


I know I know, this isn't a beer recipe...however, a nice cold brewed coffee can be just as refreshing! And you likely have most of the gear you need to make it already!

Here's what you need for this process:

  • Brew Bag (luckily, I know just where to find one!)
  • A bucket OR cooler (we recommend the ClearBrew 32L Fermentation Pail and lid)
  • 19 liters of Water
  • 1900 grams of Ground Coffee Beans
  • Sanitizer

For our process, we made a cold brewed coffee "concentrate" if you will, a stronger version that you dilute with water/milk upon serving.  We used approx 1.9kg of ground coffee beans to 19L of water, a 1:10 ratio.

Step 1: Weigh out your beans!

Cold Brewed Coffee DIY

Step 2: Grind 'em up if they aren't ground already, with a medium to course grind. We used the 9-L setting on our Baratza Vario Grinder. 

Cold Brewed Coffee Instructions

Cold Brewed Coffee How To

Step 3: Get your bucket or cooler ready! We sanitized the bucket, lid and brew bag with Starsan before filling, just to be safe.

Cold Brewed Coffee How to

Step 4: Pour in half of the water and pour in ground coffee beans, stirring them in really well. Continue pouring the rest of the water in, giving it another good stir. We used an 18.9L jug of reverse osmosis water.

Cold Brewed Coffee At Home

Cold Brewed Coffee

Step 5: Put a lid on it! No really, put the lid to your bucket or cooler and leave it for 16-24 hours.

Cold Brewed Coffee Instructions

 Step 6: Remove bag with the coffee grinds, and drain (or pour if you don't have your bucket/cooler geared up with a drainage spout) into your keg.  

Chill keg and serve, diluting to preferred strength in the glass with water or milk.



Recipe: Quick (Kettle) Soured Berliner Weisse January 10, 2016 16:24

Like most of you, we're homebrewers too! We've decided to start a series that documents the recipes and process for some of the beers that we brew. We've decided to start with one that has received great feedback from our local beer community - it's a quick soured Berliner Weisse.

Many people who haven't brewed a sour beer are intimidated by the thought.  A "Kettle Soured" Berliner Weisse eliminates most of the "intimidating" aspects of brewing a sour beer:

  • A kettle soured Berliner Weisse eliminates the "wild yeast" aspect.
    • You boil the beer after it's been soured, so your kegged/bottled beer is no different than the Stout, Porter, IPA, etc., that you currently brew. The boil kills off the souring bacteria eliminating its presence post-boil, but leaves the sour bite behind!
  • A kettle soured Berliner Weisse can soured in as little as 24 hours.
    • A lot of "sour beers" take 1+ years before they are "ready". Following the recipe/process below, your beer will generally be soured in 24 hours, and ready to drink in about the same time as your standard ale.

Recipe Stats:

  • Original Gravity:1.031
  • 4.5 IBU
  • 2.8% ABV

Water Profile:

  • We generally use reverse osmosis water when brewing, so we build the water from scratch. The following profile was used for this recipe:
    • Ca: 52.5 ppm
    • Mg: 9.9 ppm
    • Na: 13.3 ppm
    • SO4: 66.9 ppm
    • Cl: 84.8 ppm
    • HCO3: 14.4 ppm


  • 56.8% Pilsen Malt
  • 40.3% Wheat Malt
  • 2.9% Acid Malt

Mash Profile:

  • Mash @ 150°F for 60 minutes
  • Chill wort to ~110-115°F and begin souring process

Souring Process:

  • During the souring process, you want to hold your wort in the 110-115°F range. We have an electric brewing setup, and use the heating element in the kettle to accomplish this.
    • If using a carboy, you can use a FermWrap plugged into a temperature controller. We've also heard of people using household heating blankets to maintain the temperature.
  • Add unmilled malt to wort. We use a ratio of .5lb Acid Malt & .5lb 2 Row per 5 gallons of wort. You can bag this in a mesh bag, or let it float loose if you have a way to filter it out before the boil.
  • Run CO2 through wort to purge O2 from wort & vessel. You want to eliminate as much O2 during the souring phase as possible.
  • Hold the wort with the unmilled malt at 110-115°F until desired pH/sourness has been reached. Most information you read will suggest something in the range of pH 3.2-3.6; the lower you go, the more sour it will be and the more stressful for the yeast.
    • Expect to hold at this temperature for 24 hours or more to reach the desired pH. If you do not have a pH meter, we'd suggest starting the boil after 24 hours.
      • We use a pH meter from Omega - it's linked at the bottom of this post.
      • We normally boil when a pH of 3.2-3.3 has been reached.


    • Once you've reached your desired pH, remove and discard the grain, then boil the wort for 15 minutes.
    • Add 4.5 IBU of Spalt Select @ 10 minutes.
    • Chill wort to 68°F and add yeast.


    • Ferment with US-05 @ 68°F for 7 days.


    Getting started with BIAB (Brew In A Bag) Brewing July 22, 2015 21:37



    Want to start brewing with minimal investment? Are you already brewing using extract and want to move to all grain? Already brewing using the all grain method and looking for a quicker, easier method that requires less space and less cleaning? If your answer to any of the above questions is "Yes!", then BIAB is the method for you!

    Here's a quick list of what you will want for equipment if you're looking to get started in BIAB. Keep in mind, this is a general list and preference may vary from person to person.


    The most common batch size for homebrewers is 5 gallons, and this is because it's the perfect size to fill one cornelius keg (19 liters). If you're aiming for a 5 gallon batch, we suggest brewing with a 15 gallon pot. The 15 gallon pot will give you plenty of room for high gravity brews, and will also allow you to brew the odd 10 gallon batch if you want. If a 15 gallon pot just isn't feasible, a 10 gallon pot will work, but can limit you when it comes to higher gravity beers and will prevent you from brewing larger batches.

    You can generally find a suitable pot at your local homebrew shop, or at a restaurant supply store. Here in Canada,  a 15 gallon stainless steel pot can be purchased for $115CAD.

    Heat Source:

    Depending on your batch size, you may be able to use your stove as a heat source. Our suggestion is for anything 5 gallons or larger, that you use a dedicated heat source. A "turkey fryer" style propane burner is a high powered, low cost heat source for brewing. Some people prefer electric, and here in North America, hot water heater elements are a widely used method to heat wort for homebrewing.

    In Canada, a turkey fryer can be purchased as cheap as $60CAD at most hardware stores.

    BIAB Bag:

    You get that from us ;) We offer a few different styles. One is designed specifically for square coolers - this is a hybrid BIAB method that is outside of the scope of this discussion. The other two bags (classic & premium) are basically the same, except the premium bag includes a ring of webbing with a velcro strap around the top. The webbing and strap are designed to secure the bag in place while it's in your pot.

    Our bags are $34.99 and $39.99CAD, with free shipping world-wide!

    Chiller (Optional):

    The chiller is designed to chill the wort (unfermented liquid) after you're finished boiling. Using a chiller is fairly standard procedure, however, some people feel the chiller is an unnecessary piece of equipment. If you do a quick search for "homebrew no chill method" you'll find a lot of information on this topic.

    A standard immersion chiller can be found for about $85CAD, but as mentioned, this item may be considered optional.


    You'll still need your other equipment - buckets, carboys, transferring lines etc., but you can get by with just a couple of food grade buckets, and some siphon hose to transfer the liquid. 

    As you can see, getting started with brewing using the BIAB method is easy and inexpensive. The necessary equipment can be found new for as low as $210CAD.

    What are you waiting for? Order your BIAB bag now!

    Click here to order!


    The Top 10 Homebrewing Books July 14, 2015 12:24


    Are you looking to learn about homebrewing? Want to formulate better recipes? Looking to experiment with new and unique ingredients? Homebrewing books are a great source of information, and can really help when getting started in homebrewing or expanding your existing brewing knowledge.

    We've compiled a Top 10 List of homebrewing books as rated on

    Top 10:

    1. How to Brew: Everything you need to know to brew beer right the first time
    2. The Complete Joy of Homebrewing Fourth Edition: Fully Revised and Updated
    3. Homebrew Beyond the Basics: All-Grain Brewing and Other Next Steps
    4. Brewing Classic Styles: 80 Winning Recipes Anyone Can Brew
    5. Radical Brewing: Recipes, Tales and World-Altering Meditations in a Glass
    6. Designing Great Beers: The Ultimate Guide to Brewing Classic Beer Styles
    7. Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements)
    8. For The Love of Hops: The Practical Guide to Aroma, Bitterness and the Culture of Hops (Brewing Elements)
    9. Mastering Homebrew: The Complete Guide to Brewing Delicious Beer
    10. Home Brewing: A Complete Guide On How To Brew Beer

    Honorable Mentions: 

    1. Brewing Better Beer: Master Lessons for Advanced Homebrewers
    2. Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers (Brewing Elements)
    3. Experimental Homebrewing: Mad Science in the Pursuit of Great Beer

    Our Favorite 3:

    1. How to Brew: Everything you need to know to brew beer right the first time
      1. This book is a great book for both beginners and advanced homebrewers. It covers the basics of how to brew, as well as various techniques, required equipment, etc. It covers everything that the title of the book suggests.
    2. Brewing Classic Styles: 80 Winning Recipes Anyone Can Brew
      1. This book is an excellent source for recipe formulation. Every recipe in this book is a solid example of the style it is supposed to represent. It typically covers some history of the style, reasons for various ingredients, as well as insight into the brewing process. It also provides both extract and all grain versions of the recipe. This is our go-to book when brewing a style for the first time - you can then tweak the recipe to suit your preferences!
    3. Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation (Brewing Elements)
      1. Yeast. One of the most overlooked, but most important ingredients to produce beer! This book covers a lot of information likely aimed at more experienced brewers - this doesn't mean that a new brewer shouldn't read through it. There is a lot of information to be gained, even by a new brewer, in regards to yeast health, making starters, pitching volumes, and importance of temperature control. We suggest you pick this one up early, to help jump-start your way to making better beer!

      How do I brew using the cooler BIAB (Brew In A Bag) method? July 07, 2015 09:00

      So you want to brew using the cooler BIAB method, or just want to explore the various option for brewing all grain? Well here is your post to show you how the cooler BIAB method works, as well as identify a few of the advantages with using this method.

      Why use BIAB with a cooler you may ask? There are a few main reasons:

      1. It's easier to clean compared to the traditional cooler mash tun: With a false bottom, manifold, or bazooka tube, you typically end up scooping grain out of the cooler, and there are usually nooks and crannies that you have to get at to remove the grain. With the cooler BIAB method, you just pull the bag of grain out, and dump it! Easy, right?
      2. You don't need to vorlauf: With the traditional cooler mash tun, you typically need to vorlauf before draining the mash. The grain acts as a filter, but first it has to be "set" (that's the vorlauf part). Not a huge deal, but it's a time saver. With the cooler BIAB method, you just open the valve, and let the cooler drain. The bag does all the work!
      3. You can use a finer crush: With BIAB, you can normally crush your grain on a finer setting - this typically helps with efficiency.
      4. No stuck sparges: With the traditional method, you may end up with a stuck sparge (meaning your wort stops draining, and is "stuck" in the grain bed. With BIAB, the sparge step isn't necessary, and you can easily get every last drop of wort out of the grain. If you're looking to squeeze a little extra out, you can slide the bag to one end of the cooler after it has finished draining - there will typically be a little bit extra that drains out that can be captured and then transferred to the boil kettle.

      Here's a video that show's the cooler BIAB method from start-to-finish. Sorry for the quality - we hope to make a new one in the future!



      And here's a shorter video that only shows the mash draining.


      Caring for your "Mashed In" BIAB March 23, 2015 20:29

      As strong as these little buggers are, they’re also like fragile little flowers. Let me explain. Don’t just throw them into a box with other brewing equipment that could snag the material.  Once a hole is created, it can tear up further and make quite the mess if you put grain in there.  Don’t squeeze the bag to get the excess liquid out.  Gentle squeezing is ok, but it’s best to let it drain.  The material fibres separate from the sewing process, and squeezing the bags puts stress on them, making them separate faster and maybe too far. Once, a customer had to order a new bag because they sat on it to help get the liquid out.  We also don’t recommend that. Your beer might taste like ass.  As for cleaning the bag, all it needs is a good rinse with warm water, and hang to dry – do not put it away damp, like any material, it will get mold and mildew-y.

      Custom BIAB Measurements March 23, 2015 17:59

      So, you want to buy a custom made and sized BIAB bag.  Well isn’t that lovely! First thing’s first, I will need measurements from you so I can make your “custom sized” bag.  Believe it or not, a lot of people forget this step.  I put orders on hold until I receive the information I need, and I check all dimensions you provide.  Tedious? Yes.  But that way I know you’re getting a bag that fits your vessel.

      How do you measure your kettle, what measurements do I need from you, and why are they important? Let’s talk about the Premium and Classic styles first.

      For these styles, I need, at a minimum, the outer diameter and inner height.  The outer diameter MUST include any lip that is around the top edge of the kettle.  This is important so that the bag is made large enough to fold over that lip. The inner height is to be measured from the bottom of the kettle, or false bottom, up to the very top where the bag will fold over.

      Now for the Premium Style, the same rules as above apply, although I also need the circumference around your vessel about 2-3” down from that top lip, where the webbing and Velcro would fasten.  I use pi to generate the circumference for making the body of the bag, so if the circumference you gave me is the same size, or smaller than the one I get using pi on your outer diameter, I will question it.  If your kettle has a lip, it should be smaller, since that area of your vessel is smaller….follow me?  Being off by a couple inches may not seem like that big of a deal, but the Velcro pieces may not line up properly, rendering them useless. Nobody wants useless Velcro flaps.

      Measuring for a cooler bag is pretty simple.  I need the inner AND outer length, width, and height. See? I told you it was simple!